Received: 10 December 2023 Accepted: 14 April 2024 DOI: 10.1002/agg2.20517 O R I G I N A L A R T I C L E A g r o s y s t e m s Comparative analysis of key fiber characteristics in white Pima cotton (Gossypium barbadense L.): Native accessions from the Peruvian Amazon Luis Morales-Aranibar1 Marite Yulisa Nieves Rivera2 Hebert Hernán Soto Gonzales3 Carlos Genaro Morales Aranibar4 Nataniel Linares Gutiérrez4 Francisco Gamarra Gomez4 Alan Mario Zuffo5 Jorge González Aguilera6 Fabio Steiner6 1National Intercultural University of Quillabamba (UNIQ), Cusco, Peru Abstract 2National Institute of Agrarian Innovation The fiber quality of cotton (Gossypium barbadense L.) native to the Peruvian Ama- (INIA), Lima, Peru zon region is one of the most versatile and essential natural fibers in the Peruvian 3National University of Moquegua textile industry. There is little information about the fiber quality traits of cotton geno- (UNAM), Ilo, Peru 4 types native to the Peruvian Amazon region. This study investigated the fiber qualityJorge Basadre Grohmann National University, Tacna, Peru traits of Peruvian Pima cotton accessions native to the Amazon region of the La Con- 5Department of Agronomy, State University vención Province, Cusco, Peru, to determine the lines with the greatest potential for of Maranhão, Balsas, Brazil improving fiber quality in cotton genetic breeding programs. A total of 14 cotton 6Department of Crop Science, State accessions with white fiber color, being 12 accessions of G. barbadense L. (Pima University of Mato Grosso do Sul, Cassilândia, Brazil cotton) and two accessions of Gossypium sp. (unknown cotton), were analyzed. The fiber properties determined using the high volume instrument method included seven Correspondence characteristics. All fiber properties were classified into five quality classes. The data Luis Morales-Aranibar, National Intercultural University of Quillabamba on fiber quality properties were subjected to distribution, correlation, and canonical (UNIQ), Cusco 08741, Peru. variable analysis. The results of fiber quality properties showed that the two acces- Email: luis.morales@uniq.edu.pe sions of Gossypium sp. (unknown cotton) can be promising options to be used as Assigned to Associate Editor Waltram high-quality fiber progenies in crop genetic breeding programs or can be cultivated Ravelombola. by regional farmers for the purpose of producing cottonwith high fiber quality. Future Funding information investigations could utilize other methods of fiber quality analysis and compare the National Intercultural University of fiber quality of these cotton accessions native to the Peruvian Amazon region with Quillabamba, Grant/Award Number: other cotton species grown worldwide to improve the understanding of Pima cotton 031-2023-CCO-UNIQ fiber quality and its applicability in different contexts of the textile industries. Abbreviations: BCI, Better Cotton Initiative; CV, coefficient of variation; FE, fiber elongation; GOTS, Global Organic Textile Standard; GRS, Global Recycle Standard; HVI, high volume instrument; Mc, maturity coefficient; MIC, Micronaire index; SFC, short fiber content; SL, staple length; STR, fiber strength; UHML, upper half mean length; UI, length uniformity index. This is an open access article under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs License, which permits use and distribution in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited, the use is non-commercial and no modifications or adaptations are made. © 2024 TheAuthors.Agrosystems, Geosciences & Environment published byWiley Periodicals LLC on behalf of Crop Science Society of America andAmerican Society of Agronomy. Agrosyst Geosci Environ. 2024;7:e20517. wileyonlinelibrary.com/journal/agg2 1 of 11 https://doi.org/10.1002/agg2.20517 2 of 11 MORALES-ARANIBAR ET AL. 1 INTRODUCTION Core Ideas Cotton, one of the most important and versatile natural fibers, has played a crucial role in the textile industry for centuries ∙ There is variability among the cotton accessions (Zheng et al., 2023). The genus Gossypium currently com- collected in the Peruvian Amazon. prises 52 cotton species grown around the world (Campbell ∙ Promising accessions for white cotton fiber quality et al., 2010; Gallagher et al., 2017; Grover et al., 2015), are identified. and each species has distinct fiber quality traits (Y. Wang ∙ Crop improvement programs can be favored by et al., 2023). Among the seven allotetraploid cotton species using the high-quality fiber cotton accessions. (2n = 4× = 52), Gossypium barbadense L. is widely known for its excellent fiber quality. This species is a tropical peren- nial plant native to Peru (Westengen et al., 2005) and has been frequently found within Amazonian native communities with a negative relationship with productive potential, which of Cusco (Morales-Aranibar et al., 2023). To maintain their has often restricted advances in improving the fiber quality of ancestral traditions, the native tribes of the Peruvian Amazon new commercial varieties (Arriel et al., 2023; Hayat & Bar- use cotton fibers produced in their communities for the arti- dak, 2020; Ijaz et al., 2019; Li et al., 2022; Liu et al., 2020). sanal production of clothing and other accessories, and with Furthermore, some studies have reported that commercial this, native’s communities have contributed to the preserva- upland cotton cultivars are losing some fiber quality charac- tion and conservation in situ of the genetic diversity of the teristics, such as fiber strength (Hinze et al., 2016; Peixoto species (Cardoso et al., 2023). et al., 2022). In this context, the genetic breeding of fiber Gossypium barbadenseL., commonly known as Sea Island, quality depends on exploring and efficiently using available Pima, Egyptian, long staple cotton (Montes et al., 2023), is plant genetic resources (He et al., 2021). Therefore, studies characterized by its exceptional fiber quality, with silky, long, that seek to evaluate native or wild cotton accessions from strong, and fine fibers (Abdelraheem et al., 2022). Cardoso the Peruvian Amazon region can contribute to introducing et al. (2023) reported that modern genotypes of G. bar- new accessions and genes with high potential for use in cotton badenseL. are derived fromSea Island cotton, whichwas later breeding programs. improved to produce Egyptian and Pima cotton. Therefore, Cotton fiber quality is determined through several proper- due to its excellent fiber quality, G. barbadense L. represents ties, including fiber length, uniformity, strength, elongation, an attractive option for the introgression of beneficial fiber fineness, maturity, trash, and color (Hayat & Bardak, 2020; quality alleles into upland cotton (Gossypium hirsutum L.) H. Wang &Memon, 2020). Cotton fiber quality is essential to (Campbell et al., 2018). produce high-quality textile products and meet global market In recent studies by Morales-Aranibar et al. (2023), new demands (He et al., 2021; Liu et al., 2020; Zhang et al., 2023). cotton accessions were identified in the native Amazonian However, the textile industry still demands scientific research communities of Echarati and Megantoni in the La Conven- related to the genetic breeding of cotton with an emphasis on ción Province, Cusco, Perú. Collecting and conservating these its fiber quality (Ijaz et al., 2019; Li et al., 2022; Nand et al., native or wild populations of cotton is vital to avoid the loss 2020). A comprehensive and detailed approach to fundamen- of valuable genes to global germplasm banks (Arriel et al., tal fiber properties allows the assessment of fiber quality to 2023). However, there is no updated and accurate informa- produce high-quality fiber and then improve fabric quality tion on the fiber quality of Pima cotton native to the Peruvian (H. Wang & Memon, 2020). Amazon region. This information is essential for two distinct The comparative analysis of the quality of Pima cotton fiber cotton fiber production sector segments. It allows cotton plant is relevant in regions such as Peru, which use this species of breeders to identify cotton accessions with beneficial fiber cotton as the primary source of natural fiber for the textile quality alleles to be used to improve upland cotton’s fiber industry and local communities. Identifying cotton genotypes quality and competitiveness. In addition, it allows local and with high fiber quality can significantly contribute to the final regional farmers to decide which cotton genotype should be quality of textile products and the profitability of local farmers grown to meet the fiber quality traits of local and international (Serquen-Lopez & Iglesias-Osores, 2019). Furthermore, an markets and achieve higher fiber quality and yield and greater accurate characterization of fundamental fiber quality proper- profitability in cotton cultivation. ties can provide valuable information to cotton processors and Currently, the genetic improvement of fiber quality is one textile manufacturers, helping in decision-making on the opti- of the main challenges for cotton breeders. This is because mal use of different fiber types (H. Wang & Memon, 2020). the genetic diversity of cotton accessions in global germplasm This study investigated the fiber quality traits of 12 G. bar- banks is limited. Multiple genes control fiber quality traits badense L., and two Gossypium sp. accessions native to the 26396696, 2024, 2, Downloaded from https://acsess.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/agg2.20517 by Cochrane Peru, Wiley Online Library on [05/06/2024]. See the Terms and Conditions (https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/terms-and-conditions) on Wiley Online Library for rules of use; OA articles are governed by the applicable Creative Commons License MORALES-ARANIBAR ET AL. 3 of 11 Amazon region of the La Convención Province, Cusco, Peru, 2.2 Measurement of cotton fiber qualitative to determine the lines with the greatest potential for improving and quantitative properties fiber quality in cotton genetic breeding programs. The results of this study are of great importance to the international sci- The 14 white fiber cotton accessions selected for this study entific community, regional farmers, and the textile industry were collected by Morales-Aranibar et al. (2023). Fiber qual- since the genetic material collected can be a source of highly ity analyses of all cotton fiber samples were performed using useful and usable genes for the selection of progenies with the Uster high volume instrument (HVI) M-1000 equipment high-quality fiber production. under controlled conditions (20˚C and 65% relative humid- ity) in the Textile Laboratory FILASUR S.A. accredited by the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), Global Recy- 2 MATERIALS AND METHODS cle Standard (GRS), Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), world’s finest cottons (SUPIMA is a brand and association promoting 2.1 Plant material sampling location and high-quality cotton especially Pima cotton), Peruvian Pima method (the world’s softest cotton). A 50 g sample of fibers from each of the cotton accessions was used. The fiber proper- The collection was carried out in areas of native forest in ties determined using HVI included staple length (SL, mm), the Amazonian indigenous communities of Chacopishiato, length uniformity index (UI, %), short fiber content (SFC, %), Poyentimari, and Koribeni located in the district of Echarati, Micronaire index (MIC, unit), fiber strength (STR, g tex−1), La Convención, Cusco, Peru (12˚46′03″ S and 72˚34′54″ W, fiber elongation (FE, %), and maturity coefficient (Mc, unit). and altitude 980 m above sea level [a.s.l.]) and in the native Staple length (mm) was measured as the upper half mean communities ofMiaría, Kirigueti, Timpía, Sensa, Ticumpinía, length (UHML). The uniformity index (%) is the ratio of the and Camisea located in the district of Megantoni, La Conven- fiber mean length divided by the UHML. Short fiber con- ción, Cusco, Peru (12˚46′03″ S and 72˚34′54″W, and altitude tent (%) is the percentage of fibers with a length of less than 360 m a.s.l.). 12.7 mm. Micronaire index (unit) is a measure of fiber diam- Cotton genetic materials were collected during the months eter and an indicator of the air permeability of compressed of April and December 2021. A total of 12 samples of G. cotton fibers. It is often used to indicate fiber fineness (outer barbadense L. (Pima cotton) and two samples of Gossyp- diameter) and maturity (thickness). Fiber strength (g tex−1) ium sp. (unknown cotton [cotton characterized only in terms represents the maximum tension the fiber is able to sustain of genus, without classification at the species level to date]) before breaking. Elongation at fiber break (%) is the amount of with white fiber color were collected in native Amazonian stretch a fiber can take before it breaks. The Mc is the degree communities in the districts of Echarate and Megantoni. of wall thickening and is calculated by the following equation: Authorizations were requested from native Amazonian com- munities to collect cotton genetic materials. The sampling of Mc = [𝑀 + (0.6 ×𝐻) + (0.4 × 𝐼)]∕100, (1) cotton accessions was carried out using the non-probability subjective sample selection method (i.e., non-random) (Otzen where M is the percentage of matured fibers, H is the per- & Manterola, 2017). In the native Amazonian communities, centage of half matured fibers, and I is the percentage of the samples of cotton fibers (G. barbadense L.) were collected in immature fibers. Timpía (A3), Chacopishiato (A4), Sensa (A5), Kirigueti (A6), All fiber quantitative properties of the 14 white fiber cot- Ticumpinía (A7), Sensa (A8), Chacopishiato (A9), Kirigueti ton accessions were classified into five class ranges based on (A10), Miaría (A11), Camisea (A12), Kirigueti (A13), and each fiber trait’s average value, as Hayat and Bardak (2020) Koriben (A14). In addition to these G. barbadense acces- used. The descriptive designation of each fiber property class sions, fiber samples from a variant of Gossypium sp. not is shown in Table 1. yet identified were also collected in cultivated areas in the From the numerical data obtained in the quantitative classi- communities of Koribeni (A1) and Poyentimari (A2). These fication process (Table 1), a qualitative classification of fibers samples were collected because these two cotton accessions was established following that described by the GOTS, GRS, have a set of phenotypic parameters preliminarily associated BCI, and world’s finest cottons (SUPIMA). with superior fiber quality characteristics. All samples were collected following the procedures described by Morales- Aranibar et al. (2023). The selection of these 14 cotton 2.3 Statistic analysis accessions native to the Amazon region of Peru from the 147 samples collected by Morales-Aranibar et al. (2023) was car- To compare the relationship between fiber quality traits, two ried out based on the separation of accessions that had white groups were formed considering the cotton species: the first fibers. group was formed by the two accessions of unknown cotton 26396696, 2024, 2, Downloaded from https://acsess.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/agg2.20517 by Cochrane Peru, Wiley Online Library on [05/06/2024]. See the Terms and Conditions (https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/terms-and-conditions) on Wiley Online Library for rules of use; OA articles are governed by the applicable Creative Commons License 4 of 11 MORALES-ARANIBAR ET AL. T A B L E 1 Classification of fiber quantitative properties of 14 ables method was performed to verify the overall variability white fiber cotton accessions native to Amazonian communities in the between the two cotton groups and verify the clustering La Convención Province, Cusco, Perú. tendency of fiber quality traits with the two cotton groups Descriptive Value (unknown cotton or G. barbadense). The graphs were created Fiber propertiesa designation range using the software Rbio (Federal University of Viçosa—UFV, Staple length (mm) Short ≤21 Viçosa, MG, BRA), SigmaPlot 10.0 (Systat Software, Inc.), Medium 22–25 and R version 4.3.1 (RCore Team)with the “GGally” package Medium long 26–28 to generate the correlation graph. Long 29–34 Extra long ≥35 3 RESULTS Length uniformity index (%) Very low <77 Low 77–79 3.1 Classification of fiber quality properties Intermediate 80–82 High 83–85 The fiber quality properties of the 14 white fiber cotton acces- Very high >85 sions were classified into five quality class intervals, and the Short fiber content (%) Very low <6 results are shown in Table 2. The fiber properties with the Low 6–9 greatest variability among the 14 cotton accessions were the Average 10–13 length UI and SFC with four quality classes, followed by SL High 14–17 and STR with three quality classes (Table 2). For the UI, Very high >17 only the unknown cotton accession (Gossypium sp.) collected Micronaire index (unit) Very fine 3.0 in the native community of Koribeni was classified in the< very high class (>85%) with the highest uniformity value, Fine 3–3.9 which demonstrates the superiority of this cotton accession Medium 4–4.9 in comparison to other white fiber cotton accessions. Slightly coarse 5–5.9 For the SFC, 50% of the white fiber cotton accessions, Coarse ≥6.0 being the two accessions of unknown cotton (Gossypium sp.) Fiber strength (g tex−1) Weak ≤23 and five accessions of Pima cotton (G. barbadense L.), were Intermediate 24–25 classified in the very low class (<6%) of the short fiber index Average 26–28 (Table 2). For fiber strength, 71% of the white fiber cotton Strong 29–30 accessions, the two unknown cotton accessions (Gossypium Very strong ≥31 sp.), and eight Pima cotton accessions (G. barbadense L.) Fiber elongation (%) Very low <5.0 were classified in the very strong fiber class. Among all fiber Low 5.0–5.8 quality traits, fiber elongation and maturity coefficient were Average 5.9–6.7 the fiber properties with the least variability, with the 14 white High 6.8–7.6 fiber cotton accessions being classified into only one quality class (Table 2). Very high ≥7.7 In general, the fiber quality properties of the 14 white Maturity coefficient (unit) Very immature <0.60 fiber cotton accessions were used to identify cotton acces- Immature 0.60–0.70 sions with ideal fiber quality standards for the textile industry. Average maturity 0.71–0.80 This allowed the identification of three cotton accessions col- Good maturity 0.81–0.90 lected in the native communities of Koribeni (Gossypium sp.), Very good maturity >0.90 Poyentimari (Gossypium sp.), and Timpía (G. barbadense) aSource: Adapted from Hayat and Bardak (2020). with high-quality standards and fiber properties highly val- ued in the textile industry. These cotton accessions have long fiber lengths (>28 mm), very high strength (>28 g tex−1), (Gossypium sp.) and the second group was formed by the 12 very low short fiber content (<10%), very high elongation accessions of Pima cotton (G. barbadense). One-way analysis (>7.7%), and good maturity (>0.86) (Table 2). In particular, of variance (F test; p < 0.05) was applied to fiber quality traits the unknown cotton accession (Gossypium sp.) collected from considering unbalanced data treatments (cotton species). the Koribeni community stood out for having very high length A scatter diagram based on the analysis of Pearson cor- uniformity (>85%) (Table 2). These fiber properties position relation coefficients between all fiber quality traits was these three cotton accessions as promising options for use in constructed. Multivariate analysis using the canonical vari- genetic improvement programs aimed at improving some key 26396696, 2024, 2, Downloaded from https://acsess.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/agg2.20517 by Cochrane Peru, Wiley Online Library on [05/06/2024]. See the Terms and Conditions (https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/terms-and-conditions) on Wiley Online Library for rules of use; OA articles are governed by the applicable Creative Commons License MORALES-ARANIBAR ET AL. 5 of 11 T A B L E 2 Qualitative characterization of fiber quality properties of 14 white fiber cotton accessions native to Amazonian indigenous communities in the La Convención Province, Cusco, Peru. Cotton fiber quality properties Collection Access Cotton species sitea SL UI SFC MIC STR FE Mc A1 Gossypium sp. Koribeni Long Very high Very low Coarse Very strong Very high Good maturity A2 Gossypium sp. Poyentimari Long Intermediate Very low Coarse Very strong Very high Good maturity A3 G. barbadense Timpía Long Intermediate Very low Coarse Very strong Very high Good maturity A4 G. barbadense Chacopishiato Medium long Intermediate Low Medium Strong Very high Good maturity A5 G. barbadense Sensa Medium long Low Very low Coarse Very strong Very high Good maturity A6 G. barbadense Kirigueti Medium long Intermediate Low Coarse Very strong Very high Good maturity A7 G. barbadense Ticumpinía Medium long Intermediate Very low Coarse Very strong Very high Good maturity A8 G. barbadense Sensa Medium long Intermediate Average Coarse Very strong Very high Good maturity A9 G. barbadense Chacopishiato Medium Intermediate Very low Coarse Very strong Very high Good maturity A10 G. barbadense Kirigueti Medium Low Average Coarse Strong Very high Good maturity A11 G. barbadense Miaría Medium Very low Very low Coarse Very strong Very high Good maturity A12 G. barbadense Camisea Medium Low Average Medium Average Very high Good maturity A13 G. barbadense Kirigueti Medium Very low Average Coarse Very strong Very high Good maturity A14 G. barbadense Koribeni Medium Low High Coarse Strong Very high Good maturity Number of classes (groups) 3 4 4 2 3 1 1 Abbreviations: FE, fiber elongation;Mc, maturity coefficient;MIC,Micronaire index; SFC, short fiber content; SL, staple length; STR, fiber strength; UI, length uniformity index. aName of the native community of the Peruvian Amazon. medium-long (class 3) fiber length. For the UI, 50% of cotton accessions have intermediate fiber length uniformity (class 3). For SFC, 50% of cotton accessions have a very low short fiber content (class 1). For the MIC, 85% of cotton accessions have coarse diameter fibers (class 5). For STR, 71% of cot- ton accessions have very strong fibers (class 5), which shows the importance of these white fiber cotton accessions native to the Peruvian Amazon region. For FE andMc, all cotton acces- sions have very high fiber elongation rates (class 5) and good fiber maturity (class 4), respectively. Overall, these results show the wide diversity for most fiber quality properties of white fiber cotton accessions native to the Peruvian Amazon region. F I G U R E 1 Distribution of the grouping classes of the seven fiber quality traits of the 14 white fiber cotton accessions native to 3.2 Fiber quality properties between the Amazonian indigenous communities in the La Convención Province, two cotton groups Cusco, Peru. Classes 1–5 represent the lowest value class to the highest value class for each fiber property. FE, fiber elongation; Mc, maturity Considering the grouping of the 14 white fiber cotton acces- coefficient; MIC, Micronaire index; SFC, short fiber content; SL, staple sions into two groups, group 1, composed of the two unknown length; STR, fiber strength; UI, length uniformity index. cotton accessions (Gossypium sp.), has greater fiber length, fiber quality traits such as fiber length, strength, elongation, length uniformity, and fiber strong when compared to group and uniformity. 2, constituted by 12 accessions of Pima cotton (G. barbadense The percentage distribution of the grouping classes of fiber L.) (Table 3). These results show the importance of the two quality properties of white fiber cotton accessions native unknown cotton accessions (Gossypium sp.) as possible supe- to the Peruvian Amazon region is shown in Figure 1. For rior parents in fiber length, uniformity, and strong for crop the SL, 79% of cotton accessions have medium (class 2) or genetic improvement programs. Most fiber quality traits have 26396696, 2024, 2, Downloaded from https://acsess.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/agg2.20517 by Cochrane Peru, Wiley Online Library on [05/06/2024]. See the Terms and Conditions (https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/terms-and-conditions) on Wiley Online Library for rules of use; OA articles are governed by the applicable Creative Commons License 6 of 11 MORALES-ARANIBAR ET AL. T A B L E 3 Mean values of fiber quality traits for the two unknown cotton accessions (Gossypium sp.) and for the 12 Pima cotton accessions (Gossypium barbadense L.) collected in the Amazonian indigenous communities of the La Convención Province, Cusco, Peru. Cotton fiber quality properties SL (mm) UI (%) SFC (%) MIC (unit) STR (g tex−1) FE (%) Mc (unit) Cotton groupa Group 1 29.9 ± 1.5 a 84.0 ± 1.8 a 5.0 ± 2.3 a 6.9 ± 0.6 a 46.0 ± 3.4 a 11.4 ± 1.4 a 0.90 ± 0.02 a Group 2 25.6 ± 0.6 b 79.2 ± 0.8 b 7.7 ± 0.9 a 6.4 ± 0.2 a 32.2 ± 1.4 b 13.3 ± 0.6 a 0.86 ± 0.01 a F test Probability > F 0.020 0.033 0.300 0.438 0.003 0.257 0.133 CV (%) 8.10 3.24 44.24 12.85 14.04 15.42 2.89 Notes: Means followed by different letters in the column show significant differences in the F test at 5% probability. Abbreviations: CV, coefficient of variation; FE, fiber elongation; Mc, maturity coefficient; MIC, Micronaire index; SFC, short fiber content; SL, staple length; STR, fiber strength; UI, length uniformity index. aGroup 1: Gossypium sp. (unknown cotton). Group 2: Gossypium barbadense. a coefficient of variation (CV) of less than 20%, a value con- multivariate analysis reported that the canonical variables sidered adequate for field experiments. Only the SFC had a were able to capture 100% of the data variability and thus high CV variation value (i.e., 44.24%) (Table 3). showed the differences that existed between the two groups of cotton native to the Peruvian Amazon region (unknown cot- ton orG. barbadenseL.). The results indicate that fiber quality 3.3 Correlation analysis between fiber properties are capable of discriminating individuals from the quality properties population of the two cotton groups. For group 1, consisting of the two unknown cotton accessions (Gossypium sp.), the The dispersion of data from the correlation analysis between properties that determine the fiber quality of these genotypes fiber quality traits reported that there are complex interac- are SL, U, MIC, FS, and Mc (Figure 3). tions between the distinct fiber properties of white fiber cotton Figure 3 shows that the two groups of cotton (Gossypium accessions native to the Peruvian Amazon region. A highly sp. or G. barbadense L.) have remarkably different fibers in significant and positive correlation was found between MIC their qualitative characteristics. This may be due to the differ- and Mc (r = 0.81, p < 0.001) (Figure 2). ent climate, soil, or cultivation method of these cotton species STR and FE are traits that indicate the durability and flex- in each indigenous community in the Peruvian Amazon. This ibility of cotton fibers and have a significant and negative is an important discovery that could help farmers and the tex- correlation (r = −0.57, p < 0.05). STR has a significant and tile industry better understand how to obtain better quality positive correlation with UI (r = 0.64, p < 0.05) and Mc (r cotton fibers. = 0.55, p < 0.05). FE has a significant and positive corre- lation with SFC (r = 0.53; p < 0.05), and a significant and negative correlation with Mc (r = −0.72; p < 0.01). 4 DISCUSSION These analyses provide a better understanding of the inter- relationships between the fiber quality properties of cotton The maintenance of native cotton accessions of Amazo- accessions native to the Peruvian Amazon region. They are nian communities in the La Convención Province, Cusco, fundamental for selecting new genotypes to improve some Peru, was described by Morales-Aranibar et al. (2023). How- cotton fiber quality traits to meet the demands of textile indus- ever, no information is related to the fiber quality traits tries, contributing to production efficiency and innovation in of these cotton accessions described by Morales-Aranibar the clothing industry. These fiber properties are interrelated, et al. (2023). Nonetheless, this information is important to and all these cotton fiber characteristics offer a high-quality determine, through the quality properties of the fiber, the pos- natural product. sibility of recommending or using cotton accessions with a high standard of fiber quality. The separation of white fiber cotton accessions from the 147 cotton accessions native to the 3.4 Canonical variable analysis between Peruvian Amazon region collected by Morales-Aranibar et al. fiber quality properties (2023) is the basis of this scientific research. The present study provides, in an unprecedented way, a Canonical variable analysis was performed between fiber first characterization and a detailed assessment of fiber quality quality properties and two cotton groups native to the Peru- properties determined by the HVI method in 14 native cot- vian Amazon region, and the result is shown in Figure 3. This ton accessions from different indigenous communities in the 26396696, 2024, 2, Downloaded from https://acsess.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/agg2.20517 by Cochrane Peru, Wiley Online Library on [05/06/2024]. See the Terms and Conditions (https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/terms-and-conditions) on Wiley Online Library for rules of use; OA articles are governed by the applicable Creative Commons License MORALES-ARANIBAR ET AL. 7 of 11 F I G U R E 2 Scatter diagram based on the analysis of Pearson correlation coefficients between fiber quality properties of the 14 white fiber cotton accessions native to Amazonian indigenous communities in the La Convención Province, Cusco, Peru. *, **, or *** indicate the significance of the Pearson correlation coefficients at the 5%, 1%, and 0.1% probability levels, respectively. FE, fiber elongation; Mc, maturity coefficient; MIC, Micronaire index; SFC, short fiber content; SL, staple length; STR, fiber strength; UI, length uniformity index. Peruvian Amazon region. SL is one of the traits that greatly such as flower length, bract length, bract width, capsule width, affect fiber quality, and cotton accessions have wide vari- and length and width of the leaf that differentiate these acces- ability in fiber length (Table 2). The two unknown cotton sions from the other species initially collected in the study by accessions (Gossypium sp.) collected in the native commu- Morales-Aranibar et al. (2023). nities of Koribeni and Poyentimari and one Pima cotton Fiber length uniformity is the ratio between the average accession (G. barbadense L.) collected in the native commu- length of total fibers and is an important characteristic for nity of Timpía stood out for their long fiber length (>28 mm) manufacturing a uniform fabric (Wang&Memon, 2020). Fur- (Hayat & Bardak, 2020). This is because longer cotton fibers thermore, fiber length uniformity is an important indicator allow finer spinning and greater resistance (Orcón Basilio used in selecting cotton genotypes (Hayat & Bardak, 2020). et al., 2019). Therefore, currently, the minimum fiber length In this study, the unknown cotton accession (Gossypium sp.) required by the textile industry is 28 mm (Hayat & Bardak, collected in the native community of Koribeni stood out for 2020). The three long fiber length cotton accessions collected its very high fiber length uniformity (87%). Length unifor- in this study have average stable length values between 29 and mity represents the homogeneity of the fiber length of the 31 mm (Table 1). cotton bale, and this value must be greater than 83% (Hayat & These two cotton accessions without classification at Bardak, 2020; H. Wang & Memon, 2020). species level (information that must be obtained from molec- SFC expresses the percentage of short fibers in the cot- ular studies), among the eight unknown cotton accessions ton bale and is another fundamental qualitative trait for fiber collected by Morales-Aranibar et al. (2023), were selected for quality. The SFC should be less than 10% since longer fibers the white color of their fibers. In addition to this characteristic provide greater yield and better fabric quality (H. Wang & used as a premise in this study (fiber color), we also con- Memon, 2020). Indeed, López et al. (2018) reported that lower sider that these two unknown cotton accessions have attributes SFC could lead to higher quality textile products. In this study, 26396696, 2024, 2, Downloaded from https://acsess.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/agg2.20517 by Cochrane Peru, Wiley Online Library on [05/06/2024]. See the Terms and Conditions (https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/terms-and-conditions) on Wiley Online Library for rules of use; OA articles are governed by the applicable Creative Commons License 8 of 11 MORALES-ARANIBAR ET AL. this characteristic in commercial cotton genotypes currently cultivated worldwide. The fiber’s elongation capacity is an important factor in the quality and flexibility of the fabric (Hayat & Bardak, 2020). Indeed, Broetto et al. (2013) reported that fiber elongation is a vital parameter in cotton quality. Fiber maturity is the per- centage of the development of the fiber’s secondary wall. The value of this index must be greater than 0.86 (H. Wang & Memon, 2020). Fiber maturity is the percentage of the devel- opment of the fiber’s secondary wall. The value of this index must be greater than 0.80 (Hayat & Bardak, 2020) since good fiber maturity is essential to guarantee adequate spinning and dyeing performance (Wang&Memon, 2020). In this study, all 14 cotton accessions native to the Peruvian Amazon region have good fiber maturity with Mc between 0.82 and 0.90 (Table 2). In general, the results presented here showed that the two Gossypium sp. accessions (unknown cotton), especially F I G U R E 3 the cotton accession collected in the native community ofAnalysis of canonical variables between fiber quality properties and two cotton groups (unknown cotton [Gossypium sp.] and Koribeni, may be promising options to be used as high-quality Pima cotton [Gossypium barbadense L.]) collected in the Amazonian fiber progenies in cotton genetic improvement programs. indigenous communities of the La Convención Province, Cusco, Perú. These cotton accessions meet most of the ideal criteria for FE, fiber elongation; Mc, maturity coefficient; MIC, Micronaire index; high fiber quality cotton genotypes. Integrating the results SFC, short fiber content; SL, staple length; STR, fiber strength; UI, of this study with the literature emphasizes the complex- length uniformity index. ity and multifaceted nature of cotton fiber quality. The choice of an ideal cotton genotype may depend on sev- only one accession of Pima cotton (G. barbadense L.) col- eral factors, including the destination of the fabric, textile lected in the native community of Koribeni had SFC greater industry processing techniques, and consumer preference than 10%, being classified as having a high content of short and requirements. Collaboration between empirical research, fibers (15%) (Table 2). Therefore, these results indicate that technological advances, and the experience of the textile most cotton accessions native to the Peruvian Amazon region industry can lead to a more qualified and objective selection have an adequate percentage of short fibers. of high-quality cotton genotypes in future research and indus- The MIC measures fiber diameter. Although the appropri- trial applications (Morales-Aranibar et al., 2023; Paz-López ate fiber diameter may vary depending on the final application & Piñero, 2019). of the fabric, it is advisable that this index has a value between The contribution of this study to the international litera- 3.8 and 4.5 (Hayat & Bardak, 2020). In this study, most cot- ture is significant, as this study provides detailed and practical ton accessions have coarse fibers with an MIC value greater assessment of the fiber quality properties of different cot- than 6.0 (Table 2). Only two cotton accessions (G. barbadense ton accessions collected in several native communities of the L.) collected in the native communities of Chacopishiato and Peruvian Amazon. Future research could benefit from incor- Camisea were classified as medium fine fibers with MIC val- porating quantitative methods and comparison with other ues between 4.0 and 4.9 (Table 2). Fineness is a fiber property cotton species to further improve the understanding of cot- that affects the dyeability of the fiber, and fibers of fine and ton fiber quality and its applicability in different industrial very fine fineness are undesirable for the textile industry as contexts. they impair the adhesion of the dye to the fiber thread during The data collected in native communities provide very dyeing (H. Wang & Memon, 2020). valuable information related to the conservation and use of Fiber STR is the ability of the fiber to withstand a load until genetic resources as the first stage of a crop improvement it breaks. STR is essential for the durability of the fabric, and program to be able to access and understand the genetic diver- fibers with a higher STR value (>28 g tex−1) are generally sity present in these communities. This scientific research lays preferable (Serquen-Lopez & Iglesias-Osores, 2019). In this the foundation for future studies that can further clarify the study, most cotton accessions native to the Peruvian Amazon information available about the native accessions of unknown region have strong (29–30 g tex–1) or very strong fibers (>31 g origins that we use in this study. From the seeds obtained from tex−1) (Table 2). These results highlight the importance of the these genetic materials collected in native communities of the plant material collected as a source of useful genes to recover Peruvian Amazon, new studies will be carried out to elucidate 26396696, 2024, 2, Downloaded from https://acsess.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/agg2.20517 by Cochrane Peru, Wiley Online Library on [05/06/2024]. See the Terms and Conditions (https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/terms-and-conditions) on Wiley Online Library for rules of use; OA articles are governed by the applicable Creative Commons License MORALES-ARANIBAR ET AL. 9 of 11 the species and evaluate these same characteristics related to tion; writing—original draft; writing—review and editing. fiber quality traits through experiments under controlled or Nataniel Linares Gutiérrez: Data curation; funding acqui- field conditions. These results will allow us to evaluate the sition; investigation; methodology; project administration; value in relation to the fibers that these unknown accessions validation; visualization; writing—original draft; writing— have and other characteristics that could be incorporated to review and editing. Francisco Gamarra Gomez: Funding evaluate in relation to the sample of cotton fibers from the acquisition; investigation; methodology; project adminis- same and other species, as well as from commercial cotton tration; validation; visualization; writing—original draft; cultivars of high quality and wide adaptability. writing—review and editing. Alan Mario Zuffo: Conceptu- The comparative study of the fiber quality of cotton acces- alization; investigation; methodology; project administration; sions (Gossypium sp. and G. barbadense L.) native to the validation; visualization; writing—original draft; writing— Peruvian Amazon region represents a valuable contribution to review and editing. Jorge González Aguilera: Conceptual- scientific knowledge in the area of agronomy and the textile ization; data curation; formal analysis; funding acquisition; industry. The research focused on evaluating the fiber quality investigation; methodology; resources; software; validation; traits of 12 Peruvian Pima cotton accessions (G. barbadense visualization; writing—original draft; writing—review and L.) and two unknown cotton accessions (cotton character- editing. Fabio Steiner: Conceptualization; data curation; ized only in terms of the genus, without classification at the formal analysis; funding acquisition; investigation; methodol- species level to date [Gossypium sp.]) natives to the indige- ogy; project administration; resources; software; supervision; nous communities of the Province of La Convención, Cusco, validation; visualization; writing—original draft; writing— Peru. To identify cotton accessions with high-quality fibers, review and editing. our study shows the importance and uniqueness of the two unknown cotton accessions collected in the Peruvian Ama- A C K N O W L E D G M E N T S zon region. The results of fiber quality traits allow a detailed This research was funded by National Intercultural Univer- understanding of the profile of these native cotton acces- sity of Quillabamba, grant number 031-2023-CCO-UNIQ, sions, with potential implications for their use by regional as part of the project “Variabilidad genética, distribución, farmers, in the textile industry, or crop genetic improvement impacto socioeconómico y calidad el algodón Gossypium programs. sp. en Echarati y Megantoni Provincia de La Convención – The generation of technical-scientific data on the fiber qual- Cusco.” ity of cotton accessions native to the Peruvian Amazon region will allow the continuation of research work with the purpose C O N F L I C T O F I N T E R E S T S T AT E M E N T of generating technology to produce high-yield, high-quality The authors declare no conflicts of interest. cotton. These studies could strengthen local and artisanal cotton farmers in their quest to establish stronger associa- O R C I D tions with the textile industry, guaranteeing them the supply Luis Morales-Aranibar https://orcid.org/0000-0002-9421- of high-quality fiber for their production processes. Further- 9833 more, this study has contributed to the appreciation of local Marite Yulisa Nieves Rivera https://orcid.org/0000-0002- farmers and the preservation and conservation of the biodiver- 1862-9996 sity of native and wild populations of Gossypium sp. existing Hebert Hernán Soto Gonzales https://orcid.org/0000- in native communities in the Peruvian Amazon region. 0002-9936-1943 Carlos Genaro Morales Aranibar https://orcid.org/0000- AU T H O R C O N T R I B U T I O N S 0002-4184-2365 Luis Morales-Aranibar: Conceptualization; data curation; Nataniel Linares Gutiérrez https://orcid.org/0000-0003- formal analysis; funding acquisition; investigation; method- 2323-0645 ology; project administration; resources; software; super- Francisco Gamarra Gomez https://orcid.org/0000-0002- vision; validation; visualization; writing—original draft; 3737-5610 writing—review and editing. 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